Install notes for the Terraflex rear disk brake kit on a D-35 axle


Tools and Supplies Needed

Basic tools (screwdrivers, sockets, pliers, etc)

12 point wrench Standard 1/4" (I think)

large jackstands (high enough to hold the frame with the wheels off the ground)

tubing cutter

Flare tool (I used the craftsman kit, but you can rent these too)

razor blades

alcohol for cleaning

Brake fluid (get 2 cans)

Gear oil (1.75 bottles needed)

Black RTV (I always use a new tube)

Ebrake cables (from terraflex / summit) 2 of PN 004304169. (I thought the kit should come with these, so i had no ebrake for a week after the install.  I ordered one , only to find out that i needed 2!  Doh!)

Notes:  My wheels did not fit after the brake install.  I "stole" the 30mm lug-centric wheel spacers with studs off of my mustang.  You  can see the pictures for a better idea of the clearance needed.  Remember the spacers are installed in these pictures.  My wheels have the ridge in the inside next to the spokes and it comes in contact with the wheel before you can get it seated correctly.  I attempted to put my 18" chrome mustang wheels on the jeep until i could pick up another spacer, but the studs on the jeep were too short. (haha, yeah it would have looked funny!)  There is also a warning on the instructions that some wheels will require longer studs (nappa 641-3204). Spacers with studs is an easy solution if you don't want to buy new wheels.

Basic Directions

(Instruction supplement, not replacement)

1. Jack up the jeep.  I put the front axle on regular 2-3ton jack stands and the rear frame on some longer 6 ton jack stands.

2. Remove the rear tires, and pull the drums off.  The ebrake needs to be off.

3. Get a catch container and remove the bolts on the dif cover.  My dif cover was on there good and i had to pry it off with a screwdriver.  I ended up nicking the soft metal on the outside, so you may want to use something wider like a metal scraper.  Yummy gear oil!

4. Put the jeep in neutral and rotate the drive shaft until you can see the 12 point bolt and unscrew it all the way.  I didn't have one of these stupid wrenches (what idiot came up with a 12 point bolt!  might as well make it a circle), so i tried to get it with vice grips.  No luck, i heard it turn on the head so i gave up before i could really mess up the threads.  A friend came by and dropped one off for me. (Thanks Mike!)

5. Pull (push) out the center pin.  Try to keep the spider gears and washers in place.

6. Push the axle in a bit and the C clip may fall off, or can be pulled off.  Remove the axle and watch out for gear oil dripping out.

7. Remove the brake line from the back of the drum and the ebrake cable.

8. Pull out all the springs and pads. Be nice and take a picture if you are not sure your wheels will fit and you have to revert back to the drums.  If the jeep is not a daily driver, and you never plan on putting them back, then tear them off.  That was my method.

9. Unbolt the drum and remove.

10. Install the correct side baking plate

11. Put the axle back in.  Don't wiggle it much or the spider gears will drop out.  If they do (they did to me), no big deal.  Just rotate the gears so that you can drop them in place.  You can't really do it wrong because the shaft won't line up properly.  Make sure the washers don't slip out.

12. adjust the shoes so that the rotor will just fit over them and spin freely with slight pad contact.

13. Install the rotor and bolt up the side specific caliper after installing the metal pad things on the ends.

14. Hook up the flexible brake line with the banjo bolt and see wear it will attach to the metal line.  I started at the point where the cable was bunched up and had more length in case i screwed up the double flare on the brake line.  Practice on some of the line you cut off first to get some flares that look like the stock flare.  Cut the brake line with tubing cutters, and don't cut it too short!  It sounds tricky, but was really easy and i had no leaks.

15. Do the other side.

16. Seal up the dif with rtv after cleaning it very well on both sides with the razor blade, then wiping it down with alcohol.  Lay a decent bead of rtv around the cleaned cap.  I put the bolts in about finger tight or a little tighter and let the rtv set for 10-20min then tighten to "tight" with a small socket wrench.  Next bleed the brakes. Then fill up the dif till it runs out the hole.

17. Install the Ebrake cables.  Mine didn't fit right and the spring seemed way too long, but i got it to work and smoked the clutch a little testing the holding power.  I will probably cut off about half of the spring soon.

18. Test drive and test the braking performance before you get on the main streets.


Sorry I didn't have my camera during the install, but here are some final pictures.